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PostPosted: Wed Oct 20, 2010 11:13 am 
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Location: UK
wannabeeahack wrote:
My guess (assuming the clutch bites ok, no slipping, no juddering) would be:-


1. Linkages
2. Gearbox selector (internal)
3. Synchro's
4. Bearings (does it rumble in neutral)

Is it all gears or 1-2 2-3 3-4

if the main or lay shaft or bearings are gone you can pin down which by what gears are easy and which are not and in what sequence (up? down?)

Getting reverse mainly. Apparently the clutch stuck onto the motion shaft whatever that is and caused some damage to the gearbox but been told it could still be ok with a new clutch for a while and even many more years.

If and when I get it back I'm going to try and make enough money to cover the repair bills and look out for a new car anyway.

what model exatcly is your 406? how many miles?

has the gearbox oil ever been changed?


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PostPosted: Wed Oct 20, 2010 12:16 pm 
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Quote:
Getting reverse mainly. Apparently the clutch stuck onto the motion shaft whatever that is and caused some damage to the gearbox but been told it could still be ok with a new clutch for a while and even many more years.


the only shaft a gearbox has outside its casing is the main input shaft, that has splines on along which the friction plate transmits power, it doesnt slide, the friction plate sits between the flywheel and cover plate, a friction plate can stick between the 2 but usually only when a vehicle has been stood a long time (as with handbrakes, same sort of thing)

Image


so they are fitting (or have fitted?) a clutch, and buggered the alarm up basically, and they want you to stand the cost of recoding?


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PostPosted: Wed Oct 20, 2010 3:46 pm 
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wannabeeahack wrote:
Quote:
Getting reverse mainly. Apparently the clutch stuck onto the motion shaft whatever that is and caused some damage to the gearbox but been told it could still be ok with a new clutch for a while and even many more years.


the only shaft a gearbox has outside its casing is the main input shaft, that has splines on along which the friction plate transmits power, it doesnt slide, the friction plate sits between the flywheel and cover plate, a friction plate can stick between the 2 but usually only when a vehicle has been stood a long time (as with handbrakes, same sort of thing)

Image




so they are fitting (or have fitted?) a clutch, and buggered the alarm up basically, and they want you to stand the cost of recoding?


Yes, that's about it but I'm just going to take any other additional costs of their bill but I'm sure they will say that it's coincidence that the immobiliser kicked in. I'm trying to find out from another mechanic if they should have done something else to prevent this sort of thing happening.


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PostPosted: Wed Oct 20, 2010 3:58 pm 
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Location: UK
Ok guys the good news is that they have just returned the car to me which is a major relief but guess what.......... they have charged £60 for transporting the vehicle to Peugeot and £80 to re-code it.

The local garage has said that Peugeot informed them that this can sometimes happen so it sounds as though he's going to deny causing the problem.

Any thoughts on how best to approach this one as I'm a novice at dealing with mechanics and garages.

Also the advisory note on my bill says the following:
Clutch splines were excessively worn, First motion splines are damaged but servicable (What does that mean in practice?)


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PostPosted: Wed Oct 20, 2010 7:01 pm 
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The reality is.... you could have taken you're vehicle to the main dealer and paid the main dealer price.... if they have a problem they would probably have fixed it free of charge... resetting the code........ but you did not... if you disagree with the bill... you should have spoken to the garage there and than..... you now know that disconnecting the battery can cause problems... so in future when getting work done on your car... make sure that the garage is aware.. and that they will be paying the bill for it to be coded.. all lessons in life come at a cost... learn from it.

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PostPosted: Wed Oct 20, 2010 7:15 pm 
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I think your stuffed to be honest, put it down to experience sadly


the garage should have warned you before though


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PostPosted: Wed Oct 20, 2010 7:40 pm 
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Well every person I know that has a Peugeot knows not to remove the battery cos this is what happens. If I was a cynic I'd believe Peugeot do it on purpose so you go to main dealers or recommended garaeges for your repairs :wink:

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PostPosted: Wed Oct 20, 2010 8:46 pm 
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It is not a problem caused by disconnecting the battery it is caused by NOT following the correct procedure when reconnecting ie leave it for at least 2mins then switch on the ignition, again leave for 1 min THEN start up---no problem!(have 2 406's which have done 270k and 285k !!)

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PostPosted: Thu Oct 21, 2010 6:32 am 
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MR T wrote:
The reality is.... you could have taken you're vehicle to the main dealer and paid the main dealer price.... if they have a problem they would probably have fixed it free of charge... resetting the code........ but you did not... if you disagree with the bill... you should have spoken to the garage there and than..... you now know that disconnecting the battery can cause problems... so in future when getting work done on your car... make sure that the garage is aware.. and that they will be paying the bill for it to be coded.. all lessons in life come at a cost... learn from it.

I don't know anyone who would take an old vehicle to a main dealer for servicing


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PostPosted: Thu Oct 21, 2010 8:22 am 
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would you care to enlighten us as to how old and how many miles it has covered


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PostPosted: Thu Oct 21, 2010 8:29 am 
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skippy41 wrote:
would you care to enlighten us as to how old and how many miles it has covered


It's an 03 reg and it's done 218k


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PostPosted: Thu Oct 21, 2010 9:04 am 
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PaulEFC wrote:
skippy41 wrote:
would you care to enlighten us as to how old and how many miles it has covered


It's an 03 reg and it's done 218k


Time for a new Skoda Octavia
http://www.thetaxicentre.com/viewCars.asp?ID=13
No deposit and no final payment


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PostPosted: Fri Oct 22, 2010 6:42 am 
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skippy41 wrote:
PaulEFC wrote:
skippy41 wrote:
would you care to enlighten us as to how old and how many miles it has covered


It's an 03 reg and it's done 218k


Time for a new Skoda Octavia
http://www.thetaxicentre.com/viewCars.asp?ID=13
No deposit and no final payment


You may be right but which one?

THe new Superb looks the business but delivery time is too far ahead. The Superb Saloon looks perfect but again which spec?

I also looked at the Octavia saloon and estate.....was more impressed with the saloon but is the boot big enough for four suitcases?


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PostPosted: Fri Oct 22, 2010 10:14 am 
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PaulEFC wrote:

I also looked at the Octavia saloon and estate.....was more impressed with the saloon but is the boot big enough for four suitcases?


More than, as I have proved on numerous occasions. :)

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PostPosted: Fri Oct 22, 2010 1:47 pm 
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PaulEFC wrote:
skippy41 wrote:
PaulEFC wrote:
skippy41 wrote:
would you care to enlighten us as to how old and how many miles it has covered


It's an 03 reg and it's done 218k


Time for a new Skoda Octavia
http://www.thetaxicentre.com/viewCars.asp?ID=13
No deposit and no final payment


You may be right but which one?

THe new Superb looks the business but delivery time is too far ahead. The Superb Saloon looks perfect but again which spec?

I also looked at the Octavia saloon and estate.....was more impressed with the saloon but is the boot big enough for four suitcases?


1.9 tdi or, 2ltr 140 or 170 CR for the Octy, or 2ltr 140 170 CR for the superb.
You can get 4 large cases and any extra luggage in the Octy, and in the superb even more, dont get the new 1.6 CR one, they are to under powered
If you never want to get stuck in winter go for the scout 4x4 version.
Go to your local skoda dealers and have a test drive in both, some dealers will match the taxi centre on price


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